You will end up with a square like below. (Use can use a L-square ruler to make sure it is square.)
Using an nail gun (or just a hammer and nails) reinforce the box in each corner.
You now have a finished wall cubby (or two in my case!)
Now we need to sand and paint it to look professional 🙂 Most likely, you will have some sort of a little gap where the boards meet. Use some wood fill to fill this gap.
Let it dry overnight.
Then sand it with 60 grit, 100 grit, and then 200 grit.
After two coats and a day of drying you should have two wall cubbies that look like this:
Install the hinges and you will have a frame that looks like this:
Next, on the cubbies mark where the hinges of the fake painting will meet cubbie. Make sure you give them enough room to close and line up on the cubby straight.
Now to attach the magnetic catches. These will make sure the frame on the front will stay closed.
Measure two inches to the inside of the cubbies.
You should end up with some finished Hidden Storage Wall Cubbies that look like this.
add a little wall decoration to the bathroom at the same time!
The time has finally arrived, the reveal of the Garage Sale Idea Trofast Shelf.
I attached it to the open toy box and filled it with the bins.
Cut out the fabric about 5/8″ outside of the label. This extra amount will be for your Stitch Witchery. Also, leave a little extra fabric on one end to overlap…just a little…I think this is about 1 inch.
If you have never used Stitch Witchery, it’s an awesome product. It basically glues fabric together to make a nice edge on it. Lay out your Stitch Witchery on each side of the fabric.
Use your iron to press the fabric and Stitch Witchery together. You should get a finished edge like below. Leave the one end without the Stitch Witchery, as this end will be overlapped with the finished edge.
At the end of your fabric, you will want to have it finished to look like it’s one continual piece. This is where the fabric glue comes in.
On the seam of the fabric, make a small line of glue and press the fabric together. Let this dry.
You will end up with a cute covered lampshade that was EASY!!
Now if you are like me and want a more finished look– I decided to add ribbon to the top and bottom of the shade.
I made a small line of fabric glue around the top edge of the lampshade and placed the ribbon around it.
To prevent the ribbon from fraying on the end, I used pinking shears to cut the ribbon. Don’t worry, no one will look that close at your ribbon to see the jagged edge. Glue the two ends of the ribbons together.
Repeat the process with the bottom ribbon.
And you are FINISHED!! A super cute covered lampshade that was so easy to do! I absolutely LOVE this self-adhesive lampshade and will buy them again hands down!
At the beginning of the summer my sprayer on my hose broke. The plastic that holds the handle onto it split in two and it has been very annoying to hold it together so I can water my flowers. Now most normal people would say to just get a new sprayer and I would but our hose baked in the west facing sun all last summer and somehow the sprayer welded to the hose. My husband tried for about an hour with pliers to get the two apart with not luck. The only option was to cut the hose and replace the end of the hose.
In addition to the one end needing to be replace, the other end of the hose that attaches to the hose reel is broken too. It sprays tons of water and we tried to replace the washer in it to find that is was still broken.
It’s been quite the hose drama. Now I could go out and buy a new hose, but honestly this hose is awesome and was pretty expensive brand new. Instead, we decided that we needed to replace just the end fittings.
Now when I first picked up the new end fittings for the hose, I looked at this and thought, “There is no way I can do this.”
To start, you will need to the following items:
male/female hose fittings for your hose size (standard is 5/8″)
(Don’t ask my why I have needle nose pliers in this picture.)
However, if you want to know how to attach it to your hose reel without leaks, continue on:
And you are done! No leaks from your hose!
I hoped this DIY helped some of you out there who might need to tackle this annoying little task, really it’s super easy and fast to do!
We have just moved into our new house (more like a 70s house than new!) and I have already completed a few projects. I know our plans are only to live in this place for a few years, with hopes of knocking it down to build a new one, but until that time there are a few things I wanted to do in the house to make it livable. Removing the shower doors was a HUGE priority in my book. I HATE shower doors, especially when they are probably the original 1978 doors that are completely disgusting!
Keep in mind, this whole bathroom is pretty bad. Brown tub, toilet, wallpaper, lighting…I mean they must have really loved brown. It looks like a dark cave, but none the less, I hate shower doors and need them gone. They weigh about 30 pounds each door and always are going off track. Also, have you ever tried to bath an infant with shower doors?? Totally impossible! Last night was bath night for my little guy, so it was time to get those doors off before he went to bed.
Here is the bathroom before:
Now I should start out by saying you need a few things to remove the doors: screw driver, bathtub caulking, rubbing alcohol, and maybe a blow dryer and scraper depending on how your doors are installed. Also, MOST importantly SAFETY GLASSES! I learned this the hard way, but first I should back up and tell you a story.
A few weeks ago, Thrifty Decor Chic had written a blog about a redo project gone wrong. She was attempting to paint her french door black and the project ended up with shattered glass everywhere. I remember reading that and thinking how horrible that must have been for her! Well, last night I had the same experience, with shower doors. This is why the importance is placed on safely glasses!
The first step to remove shower doors is to remove the shower doors from the track. They usually have some wheels on them and a little slot in the track where you can slide the wheels through it to unlodge the door. Be very careful while doing this. In my house in Omaha, I removed the shower doors and when I did it I pulled and pried and ripped the shower doors off the track no problem! In this house, probably because the doors are so old, I barely moved one and it shattered everywhere! I ended up with a mess like this:
I am just super thankful I moved my kiddo two minutes prior to this happening. He was in the sink part of the bathroom, barely divided by a doorway, playing on the floor. I at least had the forethought that the door could break and it would be a good idea to get him out of the way. I DIDN’T have safety glasses on (or shoes for that matter) and I am so surprised I didn’t end up with some glass in my eyes! Anyways, I always thought that shower doors were made with some sort of plexi glass or something shatterproof. Well, not in 1978, maybe the new ones are, but it makes you think twice about shower doors. Imagine slipping in the shower and hitting these doors and having them shatter on you! Well, anyways, everyone ended up OK in the situation. My little guy heard the bang of the door braking and was quite upset by the sound and I had a few cuts on my hands and feet. Other than the hour it took to clean up the dust like glass, we were all fine.
Anyways, back to the shower door removal….Once you remove the doors from the track, remove the hardware holding them in place. Usually it is just screwed in, so pretty simple. The house in Omaha had the doors tract caulked to the tub as well. If yours are, just use a blow dryer to heat up the caulking till you can remove the hardware. Then in combination of blow dryer and scraping with a putty knife, remove the caulking. It’s not fun and takes some time, but you will eventually get it all off. After the hardware is removed, you will be left with holes in your tub that look like this. You will need to fill the holes with some bath caulking. This will prevent ruining your tub with mold and mildew. If you have a white tub, like most normal people do, I would use white caulking. This tub is this awesome brown color and because they don’t make bath caulking in brown, I opted with clear. Fill the holes with caulking.Dip your finger in rubbing alcohol (this is a trick I learned from my mom!) and smooth out the caulking. The alcohol helps so that the caulking doesn’t stick to your finger and it smooths out the caulking nicely. (This also works great for caulking around a tub and counter tops.)
Finally, hang your shower curtain and rod. I chose this plain Jane white shower curtain to help brighten up the room. The bathroom may still look pretty bad, you know brown tub and toilet and the AWESOME wood toilet seat, but at least I don’t have to look at those disgusting shower doors anymore!!Happy showering!!
Hello there! Beth has asked me to write a tutorial on one of my “green” projects. Today, I am going to talk about homemade Dryer Balls.
I remember a few years back, they had these infomercials for plastic dryer balls. They were these cheap, flimsy things that supposedly did the work of 100’s of dryer sheets. Well… they may have, but this is a way you can make them at home with scraps of yarn you already have lying around, or for about $5 you can buy a whole new ball at your craft store.
What you need:
– Yarn. It MUST be real wool. You cannot use acrylic as it will not felt together! I bought new and got some fun colors!
– Knitting Needle. I don’t think this is a must, honestly. I bought them, but I have skewers, click-able ink pens and other things that would work just as well!
– An old nylon stocking. Don’t use a new one. Use that one you kept because it only has one small run in it.
– Washer, dryer, and scissors.
Step 1: Make a ball. Yep, you need to wind the yarn tightly around in various directions, making a ball about 2”. To start the ball, I wrapped it around my first two fingers about 6-8 times. Then, I pulled it off my fingers, twisted it in a figure 8, and folded in half. I proceeded to wrap more yarn around until a ball formed. I use the palm of my hand to mark the size. To secure the end, use the knitting needle to press the end deep inside the ball, putting the end under some of the wound strands – almost like you’re starting tying your shoes. Note, if you’re using partial pieces, I would start by using them here. Tie the ends together and no one will ever know! You want to go as tight as you can around, the closer to the outside of the ball you are. Remember – you’re not aiming for perfection! Personally, I think they look great all messed up, going in different directions.
(sorry about the bad picture!)
Step 2: You need to “felt” the ball. Felting is the process of compressing the fibers. To do this, you need to put the ball in a nylon stocking and tie it tightly around the end.
Wash and dry with a load of laundry. Keep in mind, you don’t want to wash this with your whites as the colors may bleed!!!
After you’ve washed and dried the ball, cut it out of the nylon and you’ll have a nice, felted ball!
Step 3: Start winding again to make the ball bigger. You’ll want the ball to have doubled in size. Secure the ends again. Felt the ball one more time, the same as before.
After you’ve dried the ball in the dryer inside the nylon, cut it out and discard the nylon (or save it for the next one you make!!). Keep the ball in your dryer and use instead of dryer sheets.
Since I’ve been using my dryer ball, I’ve noticed several things. First, my laundry is just as fresh and soft as if I used a dryer sheet if not better! In some cases, dryer sheets may still come in handy. For instance, dress shirts made of lycra or other similar material sometimes come out full of static. I don’t wear them often, so I just deal with the static. Lastly, I’ve noticed that my drying time is cut down MAJORLY! This is HUGE for me!!! My dryer is about 10 years old, and well…I have no foreseeable plans to get a new one. The fact that my dryer is working better now than it has in years past absolutely amazes me! I hope you try this out, and love it as much as I do!
If you have any questions about making this, please feel free to comment below or email firstname.lastname@example.org and they will be happy to forward any questions to me.
First Example: Giving my old but functioning filing cabinet a much needed face lift. I knew that with some hard work and a coat of primer and spray paint I could give this cabinet new life.
Aww! Come on you gotta admit that I have a great guy. While Nathan did most of the sanding I made sure he taught me the basics. He prefers a “random orbit” sander for the best finish. After going over the cabinet a couple times we took a few sheets of sandpaper and made sure we went over the glossy areas that were left.
Step 4: Prime the cabinet
Step 5: (once the primer has dried) try spray painting and realize that some dust must have blown into the primer since you were working on this project outside. Grr… when I started spray painting I noticed flakes popping up everywhere. My mom, a spray paint guru, came to the conclusion that it was a little windy when we were priming and thinks some dust became stuck in the primer. To rememdy the situation we purchased a sanding block and went over the cabinet until it was smooth(er).
Step 6: Spray Paint! Can you believe I’ve never spray painted anything in my life? There’s a first time for everything! The trick is to keep the can about 5 inches away and spray in continuous, fast moving strokes. It took me 3 coats to finish this baby.
Step 7: Let it dry and then stand back and marvel. What an IMPROVEMENT! And just what my office needed. Not only was it fairly easy (I’m sure it will get better with experience and practice) but it was pretty cheap! Just a few cans of primer, spray paint and a sanding block.
Up next, how to fill blank space on the office walls… stay tuned!
Ok, I admit it…I have performed one of the most deadliest sins in home renovation. I painted over my wallpaper. Now, I can’t lie and say I haven’t done this before because I did do this in the kitchen, but I have decided it really is truly the only way to get this house remodeled in a timely manor.
I started working on removing the wallpaper in the nursery a couple weeks ago. You might remember, the room looked like this.
This lovely brown “string” wallpaper covered the room. It just had to go! I couldn’t paint directly over the wallpaper because the strings created too much texture. I began first by ripping all the strings off the walls and ended up with just the adhesive layer below the strings. It looked something like this:
With a steamer in one hand, a putty knife in the other I began removing the adhesive layer…slowly. I have mentioned before that the wallpaper in this house was applied directly to the drywall. When you are removing the paper, it tears your first layer of drywall. You get little tears everywhere that look like this:
Then when you use the steamer, if the wall gets too moist you end up scraping off the first layer of drywall with your putty knife. It’s like there is no even point of where the paper will just come off easily. After about 10 hours spent on this room I had only about a 4 foot section of the wall removed, with tears and pealing all over the drywall.
At this point, I gave up. I mean at this rate our boy will be entering 1st grade before I get this stupid stuff removed. It was just so stuck to the wall! After venting my frustration to a coworker, he said his mom is an interior designer and they paint over the wallpaper all the time. Like I said at the beginning, I did painted over the wallpaper in the kitchen and I have always felt some “guilt” for doing this. You know what though, the kitchen turned out great so I figured why not…let’s do it again!
Many people seem confused about where to start when painting over the wallpaper, so this is what I have done and it has worked in one room so far. Start out with removing all the loose wallpaper. Also, if you have a textured wallpaper, as I did with the strings, try to remove that layer as well. Next apply joint compound to all seems, areas where the loose wallpaper was removed, and any rips in the drywall. Your room should look something like this:
And this where I patched over the damaged drywall:
After your joint compound has dried (usually I wait overnight) then you need to sand it all down. I used this special sandpaper for drywall, it’s more like a screen. It works great! Also, there is a special holder for this screen, but I couldn’t find it so I just used my hand. Plus, I think it works better. I like to sand in a circular motion so that no lines appear in the joint compound. Sometimes, if you sand in one direction you will get these little lines from the screen and they do show up when you paint.
After this step you, the wall, and the room will be covered in white dust. It is very important to clean the room after this step. This will involve wiping down all the walls with a damp cloth and vacuuming the floor and baseboards. Painting over the dust on the walls will cause your primer to clump.
Next apply an oil-based primer. It is VERY important that it is oil-based. Regular primer that is water based could cause the wallpaper to release where you don’t want it to! I use Kilz because the coverage is thick and they make the oil-based in an odorless form, which is great for me and the baby!
I painted this on with a 1/2″ nap roller. I wanted to create some texture in the wall and cover-up any imperfections that might show up from the damaged drywall. You also might need to apply a second coat depending on how well it covered the joint compounded seams.
Once the primer has dried your room should look something like this and you are ready to paint!
Once you have your actual paint color on the walls you might notice some areas that didn’t get sanded down as well and show some lines from the joint compound or possibly the wallpaper seams. Just apply more joint compound on those areas, sand it down, prime again, and paint your color over it and it should look nice and smooth.
Hope this saves some of you time on your home remodeling projects, I know it has on mine!